r/Controller

This may be a stupid question, but what was this mushroom head designed for? I used it on the left analog stick for a while, but it didn't seem comfortable. Do you use these?

not a review/sponsored, this was bought years ago using birthday money + worlds finest chocolate

thumbsticks melted off from constant usage, id estimate 20k hours on it

I bought this edition on AliExpress through a reseller, and the print quality is very poor, it looks like 360p resolution. I looked into it and several other users reported the same issue. Apparently, I was “lucky” enough to get a bad batch.

Hi everyone, and hopefully, hi to the GameSir Team!

I’m writing this because I believe I speak for a huge part of the controller enthusiast community. In 2024, GameSir released the Tarantula Pro, and for many of us, it remains a masterpiece of engineering. The buttons, the TMR/Hall Effect tech, and the ergonomics are still unrivaled, even by newer releases.

However, as we transition to the Switch 2, there’s a small but vital feature missing that’s breaking the experience for us: The Wake-Up function.

We know the Tarantula Pro is a 2024 product, but it’s far from 'old'. It was built to last. We chose GameSir because your brand is synonymous with innovation and, more importantly, customer loyalty. You guys are known for actually listening to the community—something your competitors often fail to do.

Adding Switch 2 Wake-Up support via a firmware update wouldn't just be a technical fix; it would be a statement. It would show that when we buy a 'Pro' controller from GameSir, we are buying a product that the company stands behind for years, not just months.

There is a massive base of users who still main the Tarantula Pro and want to keep using it as their primary controller for the next generation. Please, GameSir, don't let this legendary hardware fall behind. Show the world why you have the most loyal fanbase in the market.

Who else is with me on this? Let’s show GameSir how many Tarantula Pro owners are ready for this update!

This controller can connect to my PC, phone, PS5, and Nintendo Switch, and it works perfectly fine for all of them except for Nintendo Switch. I tried playing Super Smash Bros Ultimate and found that I cannot dash no matter the stick sensitivity settings. I don't know what the issue is. The controller is RH-418F, and my PS5 detects it as a Dualshock 4 controller. I have looked around for a dead zone setting but there isn't one on Switch.

Hi there!

I’d appreciate any help when it comes to these strangely bizarre symptoms from a PS4 dualshock 4 controller.

So I’m absolutely not new to repairing controllers and replacing joysticks professionally. I’ve got my own personal good QUICK brand rework station as well as an OSS T12 soldering station that I love! I’ve got a humble set up with most of the things one would need for repairs (good flux, heat resistant tape, clamp, good soldering wire etc).

So I like repairing some controllers as a hobby. I’ve got a lot of them because I collect them.

So today I decided to do a new batch of controller TMR joystick replacements. Two PS5 controllers and one PS4 controller. They were all personally confirmed as working perfectly right before working on them. I did the usual of cleaning the area with 99% IPA, adding heat resistance tape to all plastic ports and the majority of the body of the motherboard excluding the joystick area (I like to stay safe), pre-heating the board with my rework station for 30 seconds, adding flux into the joints and adding in leaded low temp solder to them to prep the joysticks for easy removal with my rework station, remove with heat gun and then put in new joysticks, clean and reassemble.

I did this for the two PS5 controllers and everything went smoothly as usual. Starting working on the PS4 controllers and everything seems like it’s going fine.

Assemble it and hook it up to the calibrator online then all of a sudden I get the strangest behaviour from it. One specific small area of the motherboard becomes scorching hot (see red circle in pictures). The analog sticks don’t register and are just permanently set at a bottom right corner angle in the calibrator page and the square and O button is permanently activated in the calibrator page. I of course did the usual troubleshooting like rechecking my soldering work, check the ports and ribbon cable and what not etc.

That got me no where so I decided to strip the joysticks away and just have the bare motherboard with the USB port ribbon cable attached and connected to the calibrator in order to systematically start ruling out what’s broken and what’s not. Surprisingly, the SAME symptoms appeared. This means I can’t blame the joysticks, battery, buttons, ribbon cables. Now I’m getting worried since this is getting dangerously way above my expertise if it ends up being a short or something.

The controller is alive (even in barebones mode), switches on and registers clicks from the touchpad area and home button/power button and nothing else. It’s able to register in the calibrator and pop up as a controller and is able to wirelessly activate the console with that power button click which means it’s got some life to it.

What could it be? What is that area that heats up? What could be the cause?

I’m honestly at my wits end and have NO idea where to go from here. Any ideas guys? Would really appreciate as I’d hate loosing out in this controller since it’s my favourite!

Hi, I have seen Leadjoy's marketing material claiming that their R20 dongle allows the use of the Xeno Plus controller on Xbox consoles but I could not find any review that put that to the test. Has anyone tried this adapter?

I ought to share my thoughts in a YouTube video after a good amount of time using this (bought this last week), but my initial review is that it feels absolutely worth every cheapskated cent I saved up. The features I normally assumed would be on more expensive controllers (hall effect and adjustable triggers, back buttons that actually work and hall effect sticks) are in this roughly 20 dollar (1095 Philippine Pesos) budget gaming masterpiece.

This'll go well with my GameSir X5 Lite I bought off Facebook Marketplace for half its retail price

No modification to Case & PCB.

Used 5v COB LED (as always).

I recently purchased a Retro Fighters D6 dreamcast controller, and really like it. However, I wanted to get it open; both so I could potentially mod it, and for the sake of being able to repair it in the future. I couldn't find much in the way of resources for opening this controller, so, now I have successfully done so, I thought I'd document the process and its guts and structure.

This thing was a pain to open. Me and a friend spent a long time unsuccessfully trying to figure it out, only to realise there's a secondary shell we were prying at. What we needed to do was to get our spudgers/pry tools between the outer and inner shell, and work them towards the clips. Here's the process:

Start at the top, from the rear side of the triggers. Get a pry tool/spudger between the two layers of the rear shell and work towards two clips - one on each side of the usb-c port. The part you are attempting to remove is the outer back plate (white piece), which comes away from the grips (grey). You do not want to be prying up the internal shell too (see photos), as that is screwed on.

After placing something (we used a cut up loyalty card) where the clip is to hold it open, work on the sides, down towards the grips. There's a clip on each side here. Get something in there to hold it open and block the clips from re-engaging.

After those, don't continue down the grips along the side of the controller. Instead follow the back plate round to the back of the controller, following the same process. There are 4 clips at the bottom, as shown in the photos. It may take some trying to get these to pop loose, but keep at it.

Once the back plate is off, there is the inner plate which is simply screwed on.

I think the photos serve as a better description of what needs doing, so I've tried to be thorough. After going through this, I really didn't want to have to do it again. So we marked out the screw locations on the outer shell, and drilled through. Now that the two plates have been clipped together again, the shell can be opened simply by removing the screws. I expect that you don't need all of these screws for it to be sturdy enough, so you may get away with fewer holes drilled (if you decide to do this).

I've also included photos of both sides of the board in for the purposes of documentation.

I replaced the white back housing with this soft black one from extremerate and it looks and feels so much better. This is how Xbox should’ve done this controller since the dpad and buttons are black. Aesthetically, the white never made sense to me