r/C3Corvette

Pulling the engine for another project. What would this be worth as a roller. Clean title

Hey guys. Need to make sure im make sure I'm not setting myself up for failure again. I picked up this 1972 small block auto in 2020 and didn't do a proper check. Turns out the frame was rotted at the front and so was the birdcage. Got it repaired at a shop but they went under and I was left hanging for waaaaaay over quote and a car in 3 pieces. Spent more to get it back in one piece. Frame and cage are repaired, body is bonded back together, but its an empty shell/rolling chassis. Im emotionally and financially exhausted from it and just want it gone. Thinking of posting it for 3000 CAD, negotiable, trades welcome. Do you think I'd have a chance given that running models can go for 7500 CAD?

Im not looking to recoup money spent, but I dont wanna just give it away either. Also, since these are pretty common, what do you think would be a good way to sell it? Thank for any advice.

My 1977, on the road for the first time in 10 years, been a long year of spending all my freetime in the garage.

Anyone have any advice? I’m planning for a frame off resto mod. Getting ready to build a shop first. My specific concern right now is pulling the body off frame. Obligatory pic included to appease the Corvette gods

Time for a new water pump I suppose, do I need a special one or regular one? The car has a weiland 7508 , small cam , headers and a Holley double pumper. TIA

Got the vette 25 yrs ago when I was 17. It developed a gas leak at the tank so I parked it a decade ago. It’s now time to pass her down to my 17yr old and get her back on the road

So trying to help my pops with Kelsey Hayes wheels that came with the c3 corvette he bought . Wheels came with car and were painted to match color of car and center caps are not original but he wants to sell them and what’s to know if they are real or not . What markings should wheels have and where would it be located ?

I had just finished redoing my power steering. Double checking all my nuts and pins when I noticed I had no bolt holding my lower control arm in place and it has shifted over. Hopefully not tweaked to much because I don’t know how long I’ve been driving like this.

Over the past 49 years of my car enthusiast life, things have changed. We had local mechanic shops with hot rods, race cars, and muscle cars sitting out back. There were manuals that broke everything down with photos so you could actually get through a repair or upgrade. And the monthly car magazines—I still have plastic bins full of them. I even made binders for different projects.

Those days are long gone…

For those a couple generations behind on the car scene, here’s a blast-from-the-past upgrade if you’re getting into an early C3.

I’m 65 now, and this has always been fun for me. It’s my hobby. I don’t have the same ambition I once had, but I still like to stay active.

I’ve had a 1968 327 L79 for about 3 years. I settled into a “stock-ish” look. After doing a few body-on restoration jobs over the years, I’ve found refurbishing is the sweet spot if you know what you’re doing.

I started getting a little bored with the performance on the 68 Vette, It ran fine… it just felt like something was missing.

So I went down the rabbit hole on these 327s.

What I couldn’t understand was how the 1968 L79—with a cast iron intake and Quadrajet—was rated the same 350 hp as the 1965–67 L79 with an aluminum intake and a Holley.

Didn’t make sense to me.

So I tried it myself.

My goal was to keep it stock appearing:

- Had to fit under the hood

- Needed the oil fill tube

- Had to make sense money-wise

I passed on the Edelbrock 2703—price just didn’t sit right with me. Found a vintage Edelbrock C3BX for $175 instead. I already had a Holley 1850 that needed a rebuild, so I went with that.

After the swap and a few hours of tuning over a couple days…

Big difference.

The torque increase is noticeable right away. But more than that, the car just feels more alert to your foot. Throttle response is there now. It finally feels like what I expected.

My take?

GM may have been a little generous with that 1968 rating. Maybe it hits 350 hp on a dyno—but on the street, I don’t see it matching the earlier L79 setup.

If you’ve got a 1968–72 small block with a Q-jet and cast iron intake, you might want to rethink it.

You’re leaving something on the table.

The Holley 1850 tune-

* #70 jets

* Secondary plate- #134-21

* Brown secondary spring

* 10.5 Power Valve (the 327 pulls 21” of vacuum at idle

* Pump Cam- Red #2 hole (20cc)

* #31 Accelerator pump nozzle

Timing-

* 17° initial

* Total timing- 36°@ 2700 RPM

* Idle timing total (initial plus 11° of vacuum advance) Idles at 930 RPM.

Anyone else run both setups and see the same thing?