r/AnycubicPhoton

Image 1 — The Anycubic Photon P1: A No-Nonsense Resin Workhorse
Image 2 — The Anycubic Photon P1: A No-Nonsense Resin Workhorse
Image 3 — The Anycubic Photon P1: A No-Nonsense Resin Workhorse
Image 4 — The Anycubic Photon P1: A No-Nonsense Resin Workhorse
Image 5 — The Anycubic Photon P1: A No-Nonsense Resin Workhorse
Image 6 — The Anycubic Photon P1: A No-Nonsense Resin Workhorse
🔥 Hot ▲ 65 r/AnycubicPhoton+3 crossposts

The Anycubic Photon P1: A No-Nonsense Resin Workhorse

Why the P1 is the First "Pro" Machine That Actually Respects Your Time

​I spend most of my time in Discord helping people troubleshoot failed prints, so I’m usually the first person to giggle at a "next-gen" printer feature announcements. But after putting the Anycubic Photon P1 through its paces, it’s clear they actually listened to the people in the trenches. This isn't just about chasing a higher "K" number; it’s about fixing the stuff that actually breaks our prints.

​The "14K vs 16K" Reality Check

​We’re in a bit of a "K-war" right now, but here’s the reality: a lot of 16K screens actually print worse than 14K because they can't handle full Anti-Aliasing. You end up with jagged "stair-stepping/vowel rings" on your models.

​The P1’s 10.1-inch 14K screen (16.8 x 24.8 μm) supports a much wider grayscale range. That means you get True AA, giving you buttery-smooth organic curves that 16K machines struggle with. Plus, these industrial 14K panels aren't as fragile—they don't burn out nearly as fast under UV stress.

​Killing the "Winter Fail"

​The biggest headache for most of us is temperature. If your resin is cold, it’s thick (high viscosity), and that leads to suction fails and delamination. The P1 has a built-in heated vat that holds a steady up to 40°C. It thins out even the thickest engineering resins even 8000cps so they flow like water. It basically deletes 90% of the reasons prints fail in a chilly garage.

​Smart Assisted Leveling (No Fluff)

​They aren’t calling it "magic" auto-leveling—it’s Smart Assisted Leveling 3.0. It uses sensors to do the heavy lifting, ensuring the plate is perfectly parallel without you having to do the old "paper-sliding" dance for twenty minutes. It just works.

​The Specs That Actually Matter:

• ​Industrial Backbone: C7-grade Ball Screws and dual linear rails. It’s dead quiet and kills Z-wobble before it even starts.

• ​Build Volume: 223 x 126 x 230 mm (6.5L capacity). It's a beast for large projects or batch printing.

• ​Wave Release Tech: Combined with the NFEP film, it reduces peel force by 60%. Your supports don't have to work nearly as hard.

• ​Real-World Speed: While it can hit up to 190 mm/h with High-Speed resins, even at standard speeds, the LighTurbo 4.0 engine keeps things moving fast with 92% light uniformity.

• ​Quality of Life: It’s got a stepless hinged lid (no more sticky covers on the floor!), a built-in camera for the Anycubic App, and a handy drip hanger for the build plate.

​The Bottom Line: If you want a machine that acts like a pro-level tool but is as easy to use as a home appliance, the P1 is the one. It handles the "boring" technical stuff so you can just focus on the final result.

Print by Atlas3D

u/ObjectiveAsk1804 — 20 hours ago
Screen not working after replacement (Mono SE)
▲ 3 r/AnycubicPhoton+1 crossposts

Screen not working after replacement (Mono SE)

I’ve recently received a Mono SE as a hand-me-down, and it’s been a bit of a fixer-upper. The film and tape both had to be replaced, and that got it working for a while, but now I’ve been having trouble with the screen.

I tried replacing it, and made the admittedly rookie mistake of plugging the ribbon cable into the adapter backwards. I’m uncertain of whether that caused the further issues, but that screen is no longer working.

Since then, I’ve replaced both the screen (again), as well as the motherboard, but the screen still appears fully lit during detection tests (as opposed to showing a solid rectangle).

I’ve also tried updating the firmware, but that hasn’t helped either. I’m unsure of where to go from here.

I’d really like to get it working after sinking almost the cost of a new printer into fixing this one. Has anyone had problems like this that they were able to solve?

u/Aidanovski2 — 3 hours ago
Image 1 — RERF test print. Opinions please.
Image 2 — RERF test print. Opinions please.
Image 3 — RERF test print. Opinions please.
Image 4 — RERF test print. Opinions please.
Image 5 — RERF test print. Opinions please.
Image 6 — RERF test print. Opinions please.
Image 7 — RERF test print. Opinions please.
▲ 3 r/AnycubicPhoton+1 crossposts

RERF test print. Opinions please.

New M7 Max owner here (have upgraded from OG Photon Mono).

Sunlu ABS-Like resin.

First test print, using the RERF included file, after setting up the printer and levelling with included paper.

I found it strange that #4 and 6 test failed.

I ran the plastic scraper along the bottom of the vat and felt said failed prints stuck to the film.

What do you think could have caused test prints in the middle range to fail?

Also, from the prints that have completed, which one(s) would you say is a good starting point for exposure settings?

u/SourSinigang — 11 hours ago

BURN MOTHERBOARD

hello I have photon s I was unpacking it's been years since I used the printer it's my first one so I wanted to clean it up and use it I plug it in a smell smoke turns out the board burnt if there a replacement or should I upgrade it to the Chitu V2 Motherboard

reddit.com
u/UNDEADVINYL13 — 9 hours ago
Screen not working

Screen not working

Hey all,

After having left my printer (Photon mono 4k) alone for some time, i finally came bck to it to start a project. After a couple hours of having it print, i noticed nothing was going on. Long story short, the shape for the UV plate isnt appearing, only this (even during the built in exposure test).

I could use some advice as to what to do, or if i should just upgrade. Thanks!

u/TheTrueKnightOwl — 10 hours ago
Week