r/Airheads

Hello fellow Airhead fans.

I am busy getting my bike ready to ride after sitting for too long. Family has taken priority over time and money over the last decade. One item on my list of "To Dos" is the Gear Change Lever Sleeve which has perished.

I decided to design and 3D print one. It is originally designed for a 1978 BMW R100/7, but should fit:

• R60/6 | R75/6 | R90/6 | R90S | 1973 - 1976
• R60/7 | R75/7 | R80/7 | R100/7/T | R100S | 1976 - 1980
• R80 | R80RT | 1977 Onwards
• R100 | R100RT | R100RS | R100CS | 1976 Onwards
• R45 | R65 | R65LS | R65RT | 1978 Onwards
• R80g/s | R80ST | 1981 - 1987
• R80GS & PD | R80R & Mystic | 1988 Onwards
• R100GS & PD | R100R & Mystic | 1988 Onwards

Printed in TPU with 6 wall loops and 25% infill. It was a struggle to put on because the TPU is tougher than the original rubber. But I used a bit of motor oil (TPU doesn't react with motor oil) and was able to get it on the lever.

Can be downloaded here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1710590-gear-change-lever-sleeve

125,000 miles/200,000km. 1993 model. New timing set, rod bearings, rings, heads, and electronic ignition with dual spark plugs. Crank journals were surprisingly fine. Bike ran okay prior to all the work but it was starting to lose time. Valves were closing up fast.
Keen of eye will see a head gasket installed wrong. That happened in 2003 at 48k miles..

Here's to another hundred thousand.

I took overhead photos to capture some of the detailed work.

I'm getting a lot of metal shavings in my R65 final drive oil and have a seal gone too, so I'm starting to research replacement/rebuild options..

Part numbers etc seem to be on the inside hub, but stamped on the the outside of the housing is 31/9. Is this the tooth ratio or a manufacturer date or something?

Thanks!

I noticed this 'port' open, the hole in the carb body, beside the mixture screw..I was trying to figure why the mixture screw didn't do anything. I'm assuming I have to make a little plug to block this, without messing with the little holes I the bottom. There appears to be a shoulder in the hole for that reason.

I wonder how many years I was driving it like this, cursing why it idle funny. It only took 50 years of ownership to get smart enough to fix it.

Hey, I’ve got myself a 1982 BMW R100 I’ve spent the last 2 months trying to get back on the road. I’ve surpassed all feats, including but not limited to; Wheel bearings, steering head bearings, tire replacement, pad replacement, all oils swapped, forks rebuilt (all of which done successfully), and master cylinder (almost done successfully)

My question regards the bore of the cylinder. When I got the bike, the remaining fluid has begun to crystallize whilst sitting in an a/c controlled garage for the last 23 years. I noticed some nasty crud built up around the ports here and there, and some down the bore of the cylinder, but it didn’t seem to be any match for some brake cleaner. I installed a new master cylinder kit with care, and I was home free. 3 weeks passed and now I see I’m leaking quite heavily between the face of the M/C and the throttle perch, though only from use of the front brake, not just sitting. Pulled the cylinder this morning, and noticed it squirted out past the inner seal (near the head of the piston, not the one in the throttle perch). Because it was a new Magura, I’m convinced it must be the bore it’s self causing issues.

Now I’ve had a rigorous shakedown test on the bike planned for next weekend, but I don’t wish to get brake fluid on my tank. Would a viable attempt be to pull the cylinder, and try to clean the cylinder more aggressively, be that with a brass brush or plastic brush with a lot of brake cleaner and hope it works? I hadn’t noticed any actual pitting in the bore, just general aluminum oxidation, but perhaps vinegar could help brake that edge and bring the rubber piston ring closer to the bore?

Thanks for any advice, I’m new to air heads so bear with my on terminology!

I have a 1995 R100RS that I bought last year. It came with a Progressive Rear Shock. I have the preload Spanner to set preload, but I had no idea what the shock should be pressurized to for my weight.

I took a look at the shock and the label doesn’t appear to have a model number that I can see. I have done some googling but I am hoping one of you can offer some guidance.

Edit: Well I feel silly. As I was posting this and double checking the label in the picture I see that it says that adjusting the nitrogen in the shock is not advised. So I am assuming that the only adjustment is preload via the collar.

I still welcome any advice or guidance.