
It’s 2003, and you’re out for an evening drive in the country
Roof down and tunes playing... What song would you play in the moment?

Roof down and tunes playing... What song would you play in the moment?
Is this a decent deal? It’s a 1998 in arctic silver with metropol blue interior and roof; it has 62,000 miles and has significant work done in 2022 (per the photos). My main purpose will be weekend driving in the summer and car will be garaged.
My main concerns are whether I am overpaying for a Base or should spend another $3-4k to get a similar S. I’ve been looking for comparable cars with similar service records and haven’t seen much significantly cheaper in my area.
This is the ottocast cabin care CarPlay/ baby monitor device on my 21 polestar 2 so far its been good but I’ve only had it for a day.
Have a 2002 with blue soft top and a glass window. It’s tearing from the window seams and is shaking/wafting a lot at speed. Assuming I’m going to need it replaced.
Does anyone have any recommendations for replacements. I’m assuming go glass is a better idea then the plastic. But any suggestions?
My 04 one owner base with less than 33k on the odometer. Full records, but with such low mileage damn near everything is ORIGINAL including the entire suspension and brakes. I’ve already had to put new rubber on due to the age, refurbished the CV boots, replaced the water pump and thermostat and I have the brakes and rotors for the front ready to slap on. I’ll be planning on refreshing the suspension next summer.
Apologies for the wind noise as the noise only happens when driving, but if you listen you can hear some kind of airy whining/squealing noise coming from the driver side rear wheel/engine area. It seems to change with the acceleration and go alay at idle speeds. I joke that it sounds kind of like seagulls but I’m not sure what it could be. Any help is appreciated.
02 Boxster Base model. I checked all the pulleys and none are squeaky (dont recall if I was able to check the water pump though) if that helps.
Hi all! I'll be at the Nurburgring next week (19-5-26) if anyone else on here is there and fancies meeting up lmk!
I had to remove the fuel rail so I wanted to change the orings, but the injectors do not fit back in the rail. What am I doing wrong? The pictures show the maximum amount they will go in, but it's not far enough to get the clips on. I think I may have to tow it to a shop if there isn't something obvious I'm missing because I have pretty much reached the end of my ability and had no luck.
This is the follow up to my previous post of the weird popping sound after I cleaned my throttle body. I drove it twice afterwards and both times it would make the sound on cold start with a rough idle, but would smooth out over the course of a 45min drive and it would be fine when I got home.
Today I checked to see if any hoses or whatever were loose and when I started it I heard this... What the hell did I do and what could it be? I'm a novice when it comes to working on engines so I have no idea where to even start. Is this even repairable by myself or should I just get it towed to a shop?
Anybody limiting miles on their 986? I know every body says “get out there and drive it” “enjoy it” ”let it rip“.
But some counterpoints. I bought my 986 only in part because of the favorable price. A major factor for me is the design, which has not been replicated in subsequent generations(987’s are great too, but not as enjoyable to me as a 986). I didn’t like the 981 and wouldn’t really consider a 718 unless it was the N.A. motor, which is way out of my price range and I still think would be overkill and too modern for my taste.
Now there is the argument that mileage doesn’t really cause wear to a car if you do all proper maintenance. I just don’t really agree with this. I’ve driven well-maintained high-mileage cars(a couple of my own too) and eventually everything wears out. Creaks form in places that are virtually impossible to fix. Everything starts wearing out from the seats to the suspension to the drivetrain to paint chips to interior etc. All of that can theoretically be replaced, but at what cost?
My 986 has 79k miles, and I really see myself owning it for the next 20-30 years. If I didn’t care about wear and tear, I’d probably drive it 6-8k miles a year, maybe 10k a year max. Thats already low for most people, but considering it’s 25 years old at 79k, it has averaged just over 3k over its life. My driving pattern is nearly ideal for maintaining the car, year round(rarely get snow here and there is no salting), I drive at least once a week, and my trips are usually 10-15 miles each way and about 30 minutes, enough to fully warm the car up each time.
I usually use public transportation and the car effectively serves the purpose of what would normally be someone’s second car, just for fun and periodically for real use cases.
3k miles a year is about 60 miles a week, that’s about 2-3 days a week of driving for me.
I could theoretically drive more, and I would probably do about 5k miles a year, but I really don’t want to be 20 years down the road with a 180k mile car that is wearing out. At that point I expect another clean 986 will be hard to come by, regardless of the price.
Anyone else thinking similarly? Its not really about cost, its that I don’t see my 986 as easily replaceable, and I don’t necessarily agree that mileage is just a number, especially once you start pushing over about 150-200k miles.
I appreciate anyone’s insight
I dont beat on my engine when it's cold/on shorter trips but was wondering what you all thought about going on short trips (5-10 mins) and if you worry about it at all in terms of stress on the engine. Pic for attention. Thanks in advance!
Just bought a reasonably clean 2.7 with 140k miles on the odo but only have limited service history and no knowledge of the IMS bearing being replaced.
Question is, as it's already done 140k, would the IMS bearing already have failed by now? Therefore, do I assume the bearing is a 'good one' or potentially has already been replaced? .
Over the winter months, it's likely I'll be replacing the clutch and rear main seal so is there any way I can identify that the IMS bearing may have been replaced?
So got a strange one: The coolant level light is slowly blinking. The coolant is grand level wise, it was low but turned out from sitting for so long the coolant was practically empty so took a proper good fill and bleeding. It’s been sitting fine since that but now the compartment fan isn’t activating, which it had been whilst sitting in traffic..I also don’t think the main radiator fans are activating at all.
To add to this the driver door window is being temperamental sometimes going down before the door being opened as it should and sometimes just refusing to.
Anyone able to even suggest where I start?
Haven’t driven really at night by noticed the current halogen setup isn’t exactly the brightest. Was thinking of just putting Amazon h7 LED bulbs in for some added visibility. Anyone do this with luck or problems?
Working on window regulator, everything is aligned right except this. Any ideas on how to fix?
Apologies for the terrible camera angle but I don’t think that really matters here lol