u/sawakisnt

Image 1 — Found what appears to be a last in a dumpster. What kind of shoe is it intended for?
Image 2 — Found what appears to be a last in a dumpster. What kind of shoe is it intended for?
Image 3 — Found what appears to be a last in a dumpster. What kind of shoe is it intended for?

Found what appears to be a last in a dumpster. What kind of shoe is it intended for?

Split down the middle suggests a sandal with something between the toes, but the symmetry makes me doubt that.

Also unsure how to remove it from the shoe as there's no hinge. Maybe the heel is short enough that it can slide out whole with enough force.

No text on it other than the "6".

u/sawakisnt — 5 days ago

New to me in this project are GL823 and FE1.1s. Intent is to be able to plug an SD card into the keyboard and mount it on the host. Please scrutinize those the most. Datasheets for them in the exact package being used:

Everything else I've done before and should at least be functional. Key matrix uses internal pullups/pulldowns. Both layers have a ground plane across the whole layer. Via stitching is haphazard and not spaced for a particular wavelength. I have references disabled for aesthetics but reenabled important ones on User4 for review.

References used for schematics:

Regarding L1 used for GL823, the reference schematic says 100Ω@100MHz. The closest one I found that doesn't incur a PCBA setup fee claims to be 120Ω instead. I have no understanding of ferrite beads (or inductors in general) to know if this is a problem. L1: https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/C14709.html

I did some manual length matching. Resulting length differences:

  • FE1.1s <=> USB-C: ~15mil
  • FE1.1s <=> xtal: ~6mil
  • FE1.1s <=> GL823: equal
  • GL823 <=> SD: ~15mil worst case
  • RP2040 <=> xtal: likely 20-30mil - difficult due to R35
  • RP2040 <=> U6: ~230mil worst case - have had it function with much worse

R111 is a chokepoint that I'll solder by hand. Between 0Ω and ~138Ω it'll result in ~1mA per LED. As it increases, the brightness of all LEDs should decrease somewhat equally. I intend to determine my desired brightness and just solder the appropriate 2512 resistor. Not interested in using a potentiometer or PWM. If I opt to totally disable the LEDs, I'll solder R112 to prevent that chunk of circuitry from floating.

It's a large PCB so it's hard to get a readable picture of the whole thing. I took zoomed screenshots of the important areas.

u/sawakisnt — 10 days ago