u/bobmccouch — reddlx

Hi, I’m new to Homey but so far impressed with the integrations and control.

One thing I’m trying to solve for is powering on a large number (around 30) devices with a short delay between each. The devices have a notable inrush current spike when powered on, so powering all 30 on at once is a problem for breaker capacity, but bringing them up one at a time or in small batches is fine.

I know I could do this with an advanced flow and adding delays but over time I add, and remove, these devices from my setup. So ideally my solution wouldn’t require manually adding each device to the flow and adding lines and a new delay card, or removing one and stitching the flow back together.

In pseudo code terms, I want to act on an entire zone and basically do “for each $device in $zone; power on $device; wait 2; next $device”

I’m not really seeing a way to have a flow act on a collection of devices in a zone without either a) acting on the entire zone at once, or b) enumerating each device manually and acting on it individually.

Even the Loops app can repeat an action but it doesn’t seem to be able to repeat a loop with a different device in a zone for each iteration.

Any ideas on this? Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks!

EDIT: Got this working well with HomeyScript, developed with Claude. Here is the script code, and it works great. https://pastebin.com/gXwxCeSE

About a year ago I picked up a semi-working Sega Outrun (converted to Turbo Outrun). It had some issues. No monitor, plastics were a mess, blowing fuses, and it was pretty beat down. One of the pieces down by the floor mat had a blow out, and an edge of the back “bubble” of the side had been broken off (luckily recovered and saved by previous owner).

I have spent the last 8 months or so slowly working on it. Along the way, I disassembled and cleaned almost every component. I eventually bought an *extra* Outrun (for $100!) from a junk shop as a parts machine — the cabinet literally fell apart as we were loading it in my truck, but it was complete so I was able to recover some slightly better plastics, along with the monitor glass, some pedal bits, the course map, and extras of steering and shifter pieces that I ended up using.

I bought an original Outrun PCB with the Enhanced ROMs, although sound failed on that as soon as I got it. Luckily that ended up just being a swap of a few chips to repair.

I had to replace the DC rectifier for the shaker motor to get it to stop blowing the fuse.

Here’s a breakdown of everything I did:

- Complete tear down, cleaning, lube, and installation of brass gears on steering assembly

- Teardown and cleaning of gear shifter assembly

- Replace cabinet fan

- Teardown and cleaning of pedal assembly, including replacement of worn gas pedal shaft

- Polishing of all metal trim and pedals, 80 grit up to 3000

- Replacement of floor mat

- Rebuild of front cabinet corner to repair damage

- Reinstallation and reinforcement of a blown out section from the rear edge of the left side

- Fill lock bar holes near coin door and other misc gouges and holes

- Removed a “Turbo” sticker from front panel

- Cleaned side art and front panel art (all original)

- Paint touchup

- Complete Teardown and cleaning of coin door

- Replacement of several chips on Outrun PCB to repair missing sound

- Install of Resurrection (De-Suicide) kit on Turbo board

- Replacement of shaker motor DC rectifier to fix fuse shorts

- Replacement of non-functioning marquee fixture

- Replacement of blown out speakers

- New power cord

- New T-Molding (Baby Blue from T-Molding.com)

- Repair, reinforce, paint, clear coat, sand, buff and polish dashboard and monitor bezel

- Construct a new K7000 monitor from parts including donor tube

- Install reproduction Outrun marquee (both this cabinet and the parts donor had Turbo marquees)

The only outstanding issue I will need to look into at some point is that one of the DIP switches on the Outrun PCB seems to be stuck on, resulting in the right coin slot giving 5 credits when a quarter is dropped. The diagnostic screen shows the DIP being on, but it appears to be off and I’ve cycled it several times. I did buy a new DIP switch bank, but haven’t swapped it yet. This is in my home collection, and I do run all my games on quarters for fun, but excessive credits isn’t a huge problem. I’ll get to that someday.

This was a long project with lots of work but I’m really happy with the result. The game plays really well with all the freshly cleaned and calibrated controls.