A lot weaker on open hand than half crimp - suggestions ?
Hello everyone,
I'm a 32(M) climber, 62kg , i started to climb 3 years ago, i almost only do bouldering (did some routes inside 4 or 5 times). I climb around 3 times a week. I hangboard and max pulls-ups 1 to 2 times per week.
I cannot say my level exactly in terms of the V scale, since my climbing gym doesn't show any, it is only colors.
I only did one session ever in a kilter-board, and flashed 2 V6 and did one V7 in 4/5 tries.
Outside, i only climbed at Fontainebleau. This area has the reputation to be pretty hard. I did some 6b+ and 6c, but i only went there 2 times, more than 6 month ago.
I think i could manage some 7a with more than one session, which would be V6, but probably really hard ones because its Fontainebleau.
I can hang 7sec with + 30kg on half crimp both hands, and can do 7sec with each arm -15kg (75%BW).
But I can only hang +5kg on open hand for 7sec on 20mm edge. I can barely hang the slopper on the beastmaker 2000 with BW only.
On another metric, i can do 1 one arm-pull up (only on my right arm, i can do one-arm pull up with -5kg on left), and can do a BW+47kg pull-up with both hands (175% BW).
I try to climb more and more sloppers, and practice specifically on the hangboard the open hand, but it feels like I'm not progressing , or very slowly.
I fell like my open hand level is really bad compared to my others metrics. Every time I'm climbing, I always crimp hard unconsciously, and if my hand open, i just fall. I sometimes try to force myself to not crimp sloppers, but it is very unnatural and it feels like I can't climb at my level i usually do.
Do you guys have any tips to get better at 3fingers open hands ?