u/Squido85

I got a couple of requests for more information on how I was making cases for the cabinets/furniture I've been making for my van to RV conversion. So, here is a deeper look into my process.

First, the tools needed.

The router and the jigsaw are pretty critical, though you could make the rabbit (rebate for the punters across the pond) with the table saw. In the lower right we have a jig for drilling access holes in the extrusions to tighten end fasteners.

I make the rabbits in my panels with a router. The extrusion channels are 5/16s deep, so you need a thicker bearing.....or a different router bit. 5/16th is what we're going for.

Note thicker bearing.

Extrusions are end tapped to 1/4x20 threads because that is a commonly available tapping from extrusion suppliers. TNUTZ.com will only allow you specifiy one machinging method as far as I can tell, so I get end taps done on all the pieces I order because tapping threads is higher stakes. I've broken 3 taps during this build. Every single one was...I need a therapist.

It's also worth noting that when TNUTZ does access holes they drill smaller than 1/4\". I end up re drilling to quarter because it gives me a little flexibility in finding the screw when tightening things AND it makes designing 3D cosmetic covers easier if all holes are 1/4\"

If you order raw extrusion I highly recommend getting taps that work with your drill, instead of hand turning the square shank manual taps that are commonly available at big box stores. There are available on Amazon.

So, a bit of digression on joining methods for aluminum extrusion. A lot of people use corner brackets to join their 'studs', if you will. All of these brackets are pretty damn expensive for effectively being pre-drilled angle aluminum. And I get it, making brackets is time consuming, but this....4265 | 10 Series 2 Hole - Slotted Inside Corner Bracket is ridiculous.

Also there is the consideration of joint strength.

For those wondering about the strength of 10 series extrusion there is also a deflection chart available. Short version....4' spans bend some....so....you know.....support them eh?

All the other methods of joining extrusion other than the very costly anchor are inferior to the humble end fastener. And of all these various doodads for joining extrusion, guess which is cheapest? That's right...the humble end fastener.

Side note: There are end fasteners with half a plate available, This is ostensibly for joining extrusions where not all four sides have an open channel as above. In practice, I find you don't need the half plates.

So you make a frame and you measure out panel size which is 5/8" bigger in both dimensions than the interior of your frame. And then you make panels. If you use 1/4" Baltic birch if fits nicely in the channel, though it tends to rattle a little bit. Also, 1/4" ply is not ideal for mounting things to it, OR using as a structural mount. So I use 1/2" Baltic ply and make a rabbit on the edge to fit in the channel. I also make a cut in the corner of the panel to accommodate for the end fastener plate.

Rabbits and cutouts

A completed corner with an end plate taking up corner space.

Now I dry fit panels. and complete the build.

I will be reinstalling an end fastener on this piece before completing the frame/build.

Now you can see why the access holes exist. These last pieces slide the whole length of the cabinet from one end to the other.

When you are finished, you take it all apart, apply poly acrylic, or paste wax, or freaking hard wax oils, whatever turns your crank. And then you get a couch/dog bed/box that hides your toilet.

Note....this is prior to applying polyacrylic.

And so....there you go....this is how and why I make my cabinets the way I do. And by the by.....if you are like....."but the access holes and the ends of the extrusion.....ugly!".

That is what 3D printing is for.

This is work in progress and highly zoomed in. But if you look at my kitchenet pics in a previous post you will see that I chose black square security drawer pulls....because I think about these things. You can see one of the pulls in picture just above. It's right under the bottom of the fridge door. So.....little black squares through out.

Okay....that's it. Now you know. And knowing is half the battle.

So....I don't post here often because people who are actual cabinet makers post radiused corner laundry room cabinets and I feel inferior. And then I post money shots and....they get taken down.....cause I didn't show my work?

So....take 2.

I made a kitchen for my van. It uses extruded aluminum to frame the case. Then 1/4 or 1/2" Baltic Birch is used to panel the frame. The panels are inser into the channels or the extrusion.

Off cuts from paneling on multiple cabinets were used to make drawers using sinful pockets holes. Shameful. I know.

Blum undermount slides and inset hinges imitake the relief of the paneling when doing doors and drawers.

Extrusion is 1" thick, and panels do not sit flush with edges of extrusion ao you can see where I had to ahim panels and doors to accomplish the inset cabinet doors. This was.....time consuming.

Then there was the counter top. I wanted quartz or marble but....well...I caved to easy and bought a birch butcher block from "Team Orange" and hacked it up to fit, and installed the sink and convection cooktop.

Then...as always....I took it apart and poky coated stuff. And then I installed it. So ....money shot.

Thankyou for looking at my amateur van stuff. Some time I'll show you the other baltic birch stuff I've made....a stool, an end table, a bed, a bathroom towel holder....some bookshelf/filing cabinets.....I have a sickness for nicely laminated plywood.

A deeper dive into aluminum extrusion framed cabinetry

A deeper dive into aluminum extrusion framed cabinetry

And then there was a couch/dog bed/commode.

Van Kitchen - Take 2

And then there was a kitchen. With book matched faces on doors and drawers.

Well, the hard part or the kitchen is over