u/Sad-Wonder-5979

Mini Übersicht Gesichtssonnenschutz

Mini Übersicht Gesichtssonnenschutz

Das sind meine aktuellen Sonnenschutzprodukte fürs Gesicht, die ich durchrotiere. Ich habe trockene Haut, die zu Unreinheiten neigt.

Eine Zeit lang habe ich auch gerne von Garnier Sonnenschutz fürs Gesicht getragen, allerdings passt da, wie man es von L’Oreal gewohnt ist, leider das Preis-Leistungs-Verhältnis nicht mehr.

Fangen wir mal ganz klassisch von links an.

Lightweight sunscreen von TL.
Lässt sich gut in der richtigen Menge auftragen. Zieht super ein, lässt sich den Tag über gut tragen. kann in den Augen brennen, deswegen puder ich ihn ab wenn ich ihn nur alleine trage. Unter Make-up macht er einen guten Job. 8/10

Invisible sunscreen von TL.
Sehr silikonmäßig im Auftrag. Fühlt sich überhaupt nicht wie eine klassische Sonnensonnencreme an. Der Geruch ist zunächst gewöhnungsbedürftig, verfliegt aber innerhalb weniger Sekunden. Ist bereits meine dritte Tube. Unter Make-up top, ohne pudere ich ihn auch ab damit er nicht in die Augen kriecht und brennt. 8,5/10

Zero feel von G&G
Der ist ja noch relativ neu auf dem Markt. Ich finde ihn gigantisch. Trocknet super fix matt runter und man kann ihn problemlos in der benötigten Menge auftragen. Ich nutze darunter eine Feuchtigkeitscreme. Brennt nicht in den Augen. Mega Performance unter Make-up. Ist aktuell mein Favorit. 9,5/10

Oil control ultra fluid von TL.
Ufffff, verspricht viel, funktioniert für mich nicht gut. Ich finde ihn beim Auftragen unfassbar unangenehm vom Gefühl her. Fühlt sich auch ein bisschen so an, als wären da irgendwie feine Sandkörner drin. Er ist auch super flüssig (überraschend bei FLUID jaja) Wenn er erstmal auf der Haut sitzt und eingezogen ist, macht er einen guten Job. Werde ihn aber definitiv nicht nachkaufen. 5/10

Denkt dran, dass das alles meine Meinung ist. Wenn ihr eins der genannten Produkte nicht mögt, ist das fine.

u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 13 hours ago

Healthy diet! 🌿🥦🥬

Presented to you by one of my rabbits: Elvis (the one in the picture)

Fresh food should be around 90% of their diet! Best is meadow but I know that it’s not always available.

u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 1 day ago

Is this bunny heaven?

So, we finished building our own greenhouse a few months ago and started growing plants around March. We have kohlrabi (the vegetable itself for us, the leaves for the buns), pointed cabbage and chard (for us and the buns), and some basil as well, but that’s on the other side. The little plants are bell peppers, just for us. :)

In the colder months, I plan to grow lots of different types of kale. At the moment, I feed 90% foraged meadow plants and some of the greenhouse plants, of course along with some treats like apple, banana, carrots, and pea flakes.

Do you grow your own greens for your bunnies?

u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 6 days ago

Just a short video that I took during bonding my three bunnies in august 2025. That was on day ~3.

As you can see, Cleo bit Elvis a little. That’s very normal and even essential!

The room looked like hell after 15 days, but it was worth it. They became a lovely trio.

We had to euthanize Jake (the one on the left) in February, but he had 10 great years with us. ❤️

u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 13 days ago
▲ 14 r/BunScience+1 crossposts

!At the end of the text is a listing with the important conditions!

______________________

Rabbit bonding is often misunderstood. Many people expect two (or more) rabbits to just meet and become friends. That is not how rabbits work. They are territorial, social animals with a strict hierarchy. Bonding usually involves chasing, mounting, fur pulling, and stress before peace is established.

The goal is not to prevent conflict. The goal is to let them safely sort out their relationship under the right conditions. Conflict is necessary. This might take up to 20 days. You can move them back to the old area if they have settled in the bonding area. They do not have to be best friends for that but the fighting should be over, they should be able to lay next to each other and eat together. If they are that cool for 2-3 days, you can move them. Be aware that it’s normal if some fights flare up after moving. It’s okay and not dangerous.

A successful bonding depends less on luck and more on setup, patience, and choosing compatible rabbits. The size of the rabbits doesn’t matter. Age is a factor and so is health. All rabbits should be healthy before bonding is started. A vet visit will ensure that.

Preparation before bonding

A point lots of people miss: rabbits that are going to be bonded should ideally not see or smell each other for at least two weeks beforehand. Keeping them side by side with a fence in between often builds frustration, territorial behavior, and tension instead of friendship.

Use that preparation time for health checks, neutering recovery if needed, and getting the neutral bonding area ready.

EVERYTHING needs to be neutral

The most important rule: introduce them in a place none of the rabbits consider theirs.

Cleaning an old enclosure is not enough. Rabbits can still recognize previous scent markings. Use a completely neutral area such as a bathroom, garage, spare room, garden shed, playpen, etc.

All the equipment you put inside the neutral area needs to be neutral as well. Do not use old toilets, houses, tunnel, bowls, etc.

Put them in together at the same time

Do not let one rabbit explore first and “claim” the area. Place all rabbits into the neutral space together. That keeps things fair from the beginning.

Size of the bonding area

For two rabbits, a good starting size is usually around 4–6 m² (43–65 sq ft) with structure and open running paths. Too little space creates pressure and cornering. Too much space immediately can allow territorial splitting.

The goal is enough room to move, chase briefly, avoid each other, and calm down again. Once they become more stable, the area can gradually be expanded.

If you notice the rabbits avoiding each other, make the area smaller. If you feel like the fights are too intense, give them more space.

Normal behaviour, DO NOT INTERVENE

• chasing

• mounting (front or back)

• fur pulling

• brief circling

• staring / posturing

• marking with urine or droppings

This does not mean failure. Rabbits are negotiating rank. Interrupting every little conflict often makes things worse. As hard as it might be, try to stay away from the area. Your presence might disturb them. Watch them, but do not stalk them.

When to intervene

• locked-on fighting / biting while rolling into a ball

• repeated serious attacks

• deep wounds

• one rabbit being terrorized constantly without rest

• a rabbit refusing food due to fear

• panic freezing in a corner for long periods

Keep them together

Separating and reintroducing resets the process and increases aggression. If no one is being harmed in a serious way, keeping them together in the neutral setup is the way to go!

Set up the area intelligently

Use multiple hay piles / food stations,

multiple water bowls, tunnels or hides with two exits, open running paths, non-slip flooring,

Avoid dead ends where one rabbit can trap another.

Conditions That Should Be Right Before Bonding

• Rabbits do not see or smell each other for at least two weeks beforehand

• All rabbits are healthy

• Rabbits are neutered/spayed where appropriate and hormones settled

• Neutral territory available

• For two rabbits: around 4–6 m² starting area

• Enough time to supervise properly (do not hover)

• Multiple food/water points

• Hides with two exits or more

• Calm environment with low stress

• Willingness to let normal dominance happen

Things to Avoid (can cause bonding to fail)

• Housing them side by side before bonding

• Introducing in an existing rabbit’s territory

• Separating them

• Daily short “playdates”

• One-entry houses / dead-end tunnels

• Too little space

• Letting one rabbit claim the space first

• Punishing rabbits for dominance behavior

• Ignoring severe bullying or injuries

• Expanding territory too early

• Rushing the process

Hope that helps, if you have any other tips: go! :)

reddit.com
u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 17 days ago

GI stasis in rabbits is almost always the result of underlying issues. Related to diet, stress, pain or lack of movement.

First, we need to understand the triggers and need a good knowledge to prevent those.

The most important factor is diet. A rabbit’s digestive system is designed for a constant intake of fresh high-fiber plants. Most bunnies are overweight. That can increase the risk.

Grass and leafy forage should make up the majority of the diet, as they provide the fiber and moisture needed to keep the gut moving. If your bunny eats mostly hay, it can make GI stasis more likely to happen since hay is missing one very important ingredient: water

Diets high in sugar or starch, such as pellets, grains, or large amounts of root vegetables can disrupt the gut flora and slow digestion, increasing the risk of stasis.

Fresh greens and grass naturally support hydration, while rabbits on dry diets are more prone to dehydration.

Never give your bunnies fresh greens AND pellets!

Very important: store bought greens, like different salads or herbs are not the same thing as forage from nature. The safest and healthiest food for your rabbit will always be all types of grasses.

Pain is a major and often overlooked trigger. Dental problems, gas buildup, or other underlying health issues can cause a rabbit to eat less, which quickly leads to reduced gut movement. Especially lop eared bunnies are prone to dental problems. This creates a dangerous cycle: less food intake slows the gut, and a slower gut further reduces appetite.

Stress also plays a significant role. Changes in environment, lack of a partner, transport can all negatively affect gut motility. Rabbits are sensitive animals.

Movement is another key factor. Regular exercise stimulates natural gut activity. Rabbits that are confined for long periods or have limited space are at higher risk of developing GI stasis.

In most cases, GI stasis develops as a combination of these factors rather than a single cause. Prevention therefore relies on a holistic approach: a natural, fiber-rich and moisture-rich diet, constant access to food, sufficient water intake, regular movement, low stress, and careful attention to early signs of discomfort or reduced appetite.

If you are worried about your rabbit, please find an exotic vet. That is the most important step.

Here’s a checklist to go through - missing even one factor can increase the risk of GI stasis.

• diet is 80-90% fresh and always available (grasses, meadow, branches, leaves)

• hay is there as a supplement

• you have at least 2 bunnies living together

• your vet is a specialist

• your bunnies are normal in weight

• they have room to jump & run

• they are checked at least twice a year (dental problems, ear infections, …)

Hope I didn’t miss any important information. Please share your experience down below. :)

Edit: During molting, there can be an increased intake of hair which can also cause problems. Regular grooming and administering lactulose can help in this case.

u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 20 days ago
▲ 628 r/BunScience+1 crossposts

As always, Elvis needs his cleaning. He just plops himself right under Cleo and waits patiently for her to start grooming him. 🤭

u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 18 days ago

Since I know that some of you struggle with finding good plants for your bunnies, here’s one simple rule:

Many rabbit owners rely heavily on a hay-based diet. While there’s nothing wrong with feeding hay, there is one plant that can replace it completely under the right conditions:

GRASS

As we all know, hay is simply dried grass. It provides structure and fiber, which are essential for gut health. Fresh grass does the same — but also contains water and nutrients that are partially lost during the drying process.

What I’m trying to say:

If you have access to a variety of safe grasses, hay isn’t necessary.

It’s important to transition slowly, especially if your rabbits aren’t used to fresh meadow plants. Start with small amounts and gradually increase over 2–3 weeks.

Your rabbits’ droppings will change — they may become darker and slightly smaller. That’s normal.

I originally wanted to include pictures of grasses, but it didn’t turn out well, so here’s a simple list:

• Orchard Grass

• Oat, Wheat, and Barley Grass

• Bermuda Grass

• Crested Dog’s-tail

• Reed grasses

I had some trouble finding the perfect translations and would have liked to include more — feel free to add other grasses in the comments.

And here’s a picture of Elvis (one of my bunnies) enjoying fresh meadow :)

u/Sad-Wonder-5979 — 26 days ago