u/S1lvaticus

So I’m getting a new kilt made up and have decided to get it pleated to the stripe rather than the sett. I understood it’s normally the most prominent stripe, but the kilt maker has now asked me if I want it pleated to the “dark line” or the “orange line” and I’m a bit at a loss what to say! I had assumed it’d be to the dark thin line. Any thoughts chaps?