u/Ok_Pause_70

1. Amount of climbing and training experience? 2 years and 9 months. Redpoint: 12b (7b). Briefly attempted technical 13a (7c+).

2. Height / Weight / Ape? 187 cm / 67 kg / +7 cm Ape Index (194 cm reach).

training

• Mon/Wed/Fri: Full-body functional strength and conditioning. Focus on core stability, posterior chain, and antagonist work.
• Tue/Thu: Indoor climbing sessions. Focus on high-intensity bouldering using the MoonBoard (2016/2019 sets) and a steep Spray Wall for contact strength and tension.
• Weekends: Projecting or mileage at El Potrero Chico (Limestone).

My long-term goal is a specific 14a (8b+) vertical project in El Potrero Chico. It's a technical, cryptic line with micro-edges. I want to build the specific finger power and high-step mobility required to manage my long levers (187cm) on vertical terrain where traditional "thugging" doesn't work.

• Strengths: Reach/Ape Index, power-to-weight ratio, and comfort on technical vertical terrain.
• Weaknesses: Raw finger strength on micro-crimps (10mm or less), hip mobility for high-steps, and maintaining core tension when "bunched up" due to my height.
• Current work: Using the MoonBoard for tension and contact strength, but I feel I need a more specific roadmap for vertical 14a finger strength benchmarks.