Quark Expedition to Patagonia in March 2026
Long-promised review of my Quark Expedition aboard Ultramarine to Patagonia
I LOVED it. And it was glitchy, mostly due to weather issues not uncommon in that part of the world at that time of year (their Autumn).
There were major glitches and a run of bad luck mostly due to weather. But, the first glitch at outset was self-inflicted and therefore fixable. This was the transfer from Buenos Aires hotel (Emperador) to airport for flight to Ushuaia. Because we were ferried by large buses to the domestic airport, we were unable to park anywhere near the checkin counter by airport policy. This necessitated a VERY long walk lugging all one’s luggage. EMPHASIS ON VERY. No help with luggage and there should have been. Note to Quark to arrange this next time. After boarding the plane via bus from gate to plane, it was determined that plane was not going to fly, so we disembarked back on the bus and thence to gate to wait for second plane which arrived eventually. After arriving in Ushuaia (gorgeous airport), we walked around town, then boarded Ultramarine in the fastest, no fuss process I’ve ever experienced.
Early on in the voyage at a glacier stop, scientists were helicoptered high onto the ice to take core samples whilst the rest of us zodiac-ed ashore to get close up looks at the foot of the glacier. Soon, the heretofore good weather turned very poor, sufficiently so that retrieval was impossible. Weather continued abysmal so those unfortunate scientists were stranded on the glacier for two nights and the best part of three days. And, so was Ultramarine and all aboard. We lingered in that fjord for longer than planned, then did unexpected side trips to other nearby glaciers and outlets which were fine but ultimately turned repetitive but who wants to complain about seeing too many glaciers. About this time there were unhappy rumblings amongst passesgers. I’m copacetic and still was happy, going with the flow (yes, I live in California). But Type A’s were getting downright fidgety.
With scientists safely retrieved, voyage got back in gear. But, as it turned out, we were back on track just in time to miss the good weather window for negotiating a very tricky strait of the passage to get into harbor at Puerto Natales where we were to transfer to the trip highlight of Torres del Paine National Park. After being stalled again, we sailed instead to Punto Arenos where we were anchored/docked for three days, much if the time stranded onboard as port officials determined winds were too strong to safely use zodiacs. Eventually, one group was ferried through a snowstorm bound for the park but they didn’t make it and returned to the ship. Another group went to Estancia Penitente, a sheep ranch for tours and grilled lamb dinner with all the fixings.
I continued to enjoy the voyage but it is the truth that many passengers were disappointed. It also is true that management did their very best to deliver on scheduled stops but the cards were stacked against them. Of course, bad weather in this part of the world is to be expected and Quark reminds everyone that the meaning of ‘expedition’ means things (mostly weather) happens. Remember five tourist hikers died in a blizzard in Torres del Paine last November.
This is what happened. To gloss over the particular notable events that altered the nature of the voyage does no good and is disingenuous. I understand there are lots of Quark fans (I am one) but, let’s face it, this voyage had a lot of kattywhumpus days. It was a perfect storm. To Quark’s maximum credit, passengers received a healthy 20% refund.
And I will sail with Quark again. They handled these difficult circumstances with grace and competence.
More details, photos and comments in a separate post.
Photo: Ultramarine docked in Usuaia, Argentina.
