u/LastAttempt95

Am I ready for Lenzspitze?

Am I ready for Lenzspitze?

Hello,

this July I’m going to the Alps with an IVBV guide. We agreed that we would still discuss the objective of the trip, and I’m supposed to propose something—but before I do that, I’d like to share my idea here and see what more experienced climbers think.

We planned a 3-day trip. On the first day, I’d like to climb Allalinhorn for acclimatization, and then continue the same day to the Mischabelhütte.

On the second day, I’d like to attempt Lenzspitze — the main goal of the trip. Alternatively, if I don’t feel strong enough, I could go for Nadelhorn (I’ve read that it’s easier).

The third day is flexible—we could do some training in the terrain.

My question is: do you think this is too difficult goal for me? I feel confident about Allalinhorn, but what about Lenzspitze?

I have 2 days of experience in the Alps. Last year I climbed Breithorn from Klein Matterhorn, then stayed overnight at a hut in Ayas at 3400 m, and the next day we attempted Pollux. Difficult conditions forced us to turn back (fog—every team ahead of us turned around as well).

I’ve also completed a basic rock climbing course and know the fundamentals. The hardest route I climbed during the course was around IV+. However, I’d still describe myself as a beginner—I don’t climb every weekend, rather only occasionally, still struggling with feeling comfortable in rocky formations.

In terms of fitness, I’m very well prepared. I run 10 km once a week, and years of training give me a solid base. If acclimatization goes well, it should be fine (last year the guide even told me at one point that I probably had better cardio than him).

I’d appreciate your opinion and recommendations—do you think Lenzspitze is within my reach, or is it too ambitious for me?

Thanks in advance for your help!

u/LastAttempt95 — 4 days ago