The perfect submariner…for me.
Tudor introduced its Submariner just a year after Rolex in 1954, and for decades the factories operated under one roof. Cases, bracelets, dials—much of it came from the same factory. The real distinction was in the name on the dial and the movement inside. Hans Wilsdorf the founder of Rolex and Tudor brands created Tudor as a more accessible alternative to Rolex, delivering the same tool-watch DNA at a lower price point.
Tudor used Rolex parts through the ‘90s, until the brands shifted focus. Tudor and Rolex began separating entirely. Rolex would stand alone at the top, and Tudor would have to redefine itself. Many collectors appreciate what Tudor has become since then, especially with the Black Bay line and its vintage-inspired designs.
I’ve never fully bought into it.
There’s an intentional ceiling placed on Tudor’s modern offerings. 60-click bezels instead of 120, slab sided cases, slightly off proportions, and the absence of a date on many diver models. They’re good watches, don’t get me wrong, but they feel deliberately restrained and careful not to compete too closely with their bigger brother. That restraint has, in turn, limited my own enthusiasm for the brand.
That’s why the Tudor Submariner 79190 stands out so much to me. It’s the last of that era—and in many ways, the best expression of it.
I’ve spent time with the 126610, and while it’s objectively excellent, it leans too modern for my taste. The 16610 has always been my favorite, but prices have climbed to a point that’s hard to justify. The 79190, though, lands perfectly. It feels like a perfect blend of the 1680 and 16610: matte printed dial, maxi indices, sapphire crystal, 120-click bezel, drilled lugs, and even the hollow center links that give it that lighter, more vintage feel.
The only real drawback for me is the movement—I prefer the Rolex 3135 over the ETA 2824. But in practice, the Tudor-modified ETA has been incredibly reliable and accurate.
What really seals it is the wearability. At just 10.2mm thick, it’s significantly slimmer than the 16610 (12.7mm), and that difference is noticeable on the wrist.