u/JeanLeGhost

I need advice about training for my project

I’ve been trying to send a hard route in my home town but I feel like I need to do some specific training. I’ve recently climbed 2 5.14a and in the past 5 years i’ve also done more than 70 5.13’s.

Specifically the 14a’s where: a very long endurance route (more than 40mts) the V8 crux was at the beginning and then it was just endurance. And the other route was a 30mts route with a V9 crux in the middle. Both routes where not that hard in the upper sections. Now my project is shorter (18mts) and it consists of 4 bolts (around 13a) directly into a powerful V7 and without rest another V7. After warming up I can do the moves in isolation almost every time, but I can’t do the first boulder from the ground. And I’m having a hard time thinking that I have to do 2 V7 without any rest coming from the ground.

I was training at home doing some hard boulders in my home wall once per week to keep my bouldering level high so the V7s feel easy. And I am also doing some 2min laps in a overhanging wall, just climbing on jugs so I don’t get super pumped. I climb for 2 min, the I rest for a bit and repeat. Then I take a long rest and start again. I’m doing this once or twice a week.

But I feel like this is super generic, and i’m not sure how to aproach my training for this one!

I would love to hear advice on how to improve my training for this project! :)

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u/JeanLeGhost — 1 day ago