Hey there! I'm trying to train for an inter-uni comp at the end of the year and I wanted to know what you guys thought of my gym routine.
I've been climbing for a little over a year and I've reached a V6/V7 range. In terms of training experience when I first started I used to climb around 4 times a week which was mostly just volume climbing. After a while I shifted the sessions to be more intentional and focused so I did 3 sessions a week 1 being a kilter session. This was all when I used to work at the climbing gym so cost was never a huge factor.
Recently I've stopped working at the climbing gym so then I only go in on Tuesdays when theres a new set to work on route reading, execution and being intentional and Fridays to kilter board/ hard project and then occasionally over the weekend I go to a climbing gym to climb with friends.
Right now I go to the gym 3 times a week and its a draft I made myself by watching climbing training videos by people like lattice training and hoopers beta and so my routine looks something like this:
Monday: Push
- Incline dumbell press
- Dips
- Overhead Press
- Chest fly
- Lat raises
- Scapular push ups
- core (leg raises)
- light wrist workout
- balance workout?
Wednesday: Pull
- Pull ups
- Chest-supported rows (the machine)
- lat pulldowns
- face pulls
- hammer curls
- shoulder external rotations
- core (copenhagen planks)
-light wrist workout
- balance workout?
Saturday: Legs/prehab
- Bulgarian split squats
- Seated leg curls
- Hip abductor
- Hip adductor
- Calf raises
- Tibialis raises
- Back extensions
- core (Hollow body hold)
- light wrist workout
-balance workout?
In terms of fingers I'm doing Emil Abrahamsson's 2 times a day hangboard routine where each session is at least 6 hours spaced and on days that I've had a session I would hangboard prior but not after. Minimal finger training which I reckon I could reduce the daily hangs and then go for more intense finger training but I'm not too sure what to do cause the normal gym (not the climbing gym) I go to doesnt have anything finger related. (I have a personal hangboard in my apartment to do the hangboarding).
how the week looks
Mon - gym(push)
tues - climb (execution/ route reading)
wed - gym(pull)
thurs - rest
fri - climb (kilter / hard projects)
sat - gym (legs)
sun - rest
Right now I would say my weakness is power boulders so strength and dynamic / coordination movements - I would say I'm a more technical static climber. Strength wise I'm trying to overcome with the gym sessions and the dynamic movements/ coordinations I try dynamic climbs and try "master" the movements; trying the climb until I get it 2/3 times in a row.
I also want to work on explosiveness and lock off strength but I'm not too sure where to slot them into the workout.
Please let me know what do you think of this routine and whether I'm overdoing it or what can be improved!
Thank you!