u/GrandGames95

Very slow acceleration from start, but then once the van gets too 1600-2000rpm it’s totally fine and has the same power as my other van. It’s just difficult for it to get going from a stop, reverse is the same thing. Engine revs to 4000rpm in park or neutral. No engine light or any codes from the engine. The only code I get is from the transmission “D40C” (in picture). I’ve replaced all ABS speed sensors thinking it’ll fix it, but that code still came back after I erased it. When I erased the code I drove the van for a bit and before the code was able to get stored, whenever I would press the brake even just a little bit the ABS pump would activate all crazy like I was slipping on ice. Then shortly after, the code comes up in the transmission and my ABS and ESP lights are on. At this point my brakes work great and no interruptions from the ABS pump. The transmission shifts without issue up to 3rd gear (fastest I can go on my road I will test more later). when I look at the front and rear axle speeds on live star diagnostics, the speeds are both the same and working properly. So clearly the speed sensors are fine, where do I find the control module for the canbus and sensors? Do you guys think this would cause the weird limp mode? Ive also checked compression and its well within tolerance and even tested better than my current van. I’ve replaced the entire transmission including the torque converter and valve body already. I installed a new turbo with actuator, cleaned out all intake manifolds and intercooler + hoses, new throttle body, new egr and I even swapped my other sprinter ECU into it it didn’t change anything. The bad vans ECU was even put in my current van and it drives totally fine. Ive swapped out the TCM from my other van and still nothing changed, I would like to find something else related to the speed sensors that I can try to swap out and see if that'll do anything. I’m suspecting a wire has been chewed somewhere.

I almost bought the super single set from Reika (over $2,000) just to fit some 35s, but I was watching other people convert there f450, ram 3500, etc to super singles and some were just by banding the steelies. I have some scrap metal and an old slip roller and gave it a shot. I noticed the 3500 sprinters don’t have tpms and the track widths don’t line up front to rear stock. Front wheel width outside to outside is 75” and the rear is 80” that’s why I banded the wheels with 2.5”. This makes the front 80” wide just like the rear. All the wheels are the same and only need one spare to fix any flat. I’ve also replaced my rear hub seals and noticed the wheel bearings are extremely beefy and sit pretty far out inside the hub. That still puts the load safely inside the super single wheel (I’ve also messaged reika about the wheel bearing for the rear when I almost purchased there set. They said the wheel bearings are not to worry about at all with the new load characteristics. Apparently in the UK it’s very common to band steelies for wider tires that they have banding shops all around. I don’t think it’s legal, but these wheels will do great when I go camping. Also I’d like to specifically point out I do not want to lift my van. I really don’t like how the lifted sprinters look and you’re not actually gaining ground clearance, just lifting the subframe/body. I’m cutting a couple inches off the fender flares (might even roll them outward), but the wheel well still has plenty of room even when the axle is hitting the bump stops. They sell a bunch of the 3500 rims on ebay extremely cheap. The 3500's are most swapped out wheels and I got six rims for $170. I was surprised steelies are made from just mild steel grade metal. The extra bands i welded are a little higher grade structural steel with a bit more carbon content. There should be no issues with deforming as the back side of 3500 rims protrude far more than the 2.5" I've added in front of the center. I forgot to mention the new tires are 315 75 r16. It was actually super easy to band the steelies. The wheels run true and i tested them on the van with it free wheeling in drive (disable ESP). Making sure to weld opposite sides and cool down before doing other side of the band. The scrap metal I had is the same thickness as the wheel (1/8"). This is what the new 2024 and 2025 3500 sprinter super single version is. In fact you can buy just the rear set and put them on the front of a 3500 (not the newer front's because they run a normal 2500 front hub now). But the rears are basically exactly what mine are now (16 x 8.5") 8.5" is the bead width not the actual rim width. I had to use brake cleaner and a torch to seat the beads. The rim is too wide for even my air powered bead seater. after seating with fire and filling the tire to seat fully I purged the gasses and any smoke by refilling a couple times. The front tire is about 1/4" away front the sidewall hitting the strut. This is just like how my 2500 is with 265 75 r16 tires. They work fine and no rubbing, The van drives smoother now and i really like the matching wheel widths front to rear. It completely changed the look of the van. the brakes still feel great and locks the front wheels no problem on pavement. The best thing about the 3500's is the insane brake upgrade Mercedes added. Bondo and repainted the van with single stage urethane gloss black.

I almost bought the super single set from Reika (over $2,000) just to fit some 35s, but I was watching other people convert there f450, ram 3500, etc to super singles and some were just by banding the steelies. I have some scrap metal and an old slip roller and gave it a shot. I noticed the 3500 sprinters don’t have tpms and the track widths don’t line up front to rear stock. Front wheel width outside to outside is 75” and the rear is 80” that’s why I banded the wheels with 2.5”. This makes the front 80” wide just like the rear. All the wheels are the same and only need one spare to fix any flat. I’ve also replaced my rear hub seals and noticed the wheel bearings are extremely beefy and sit pretty far out inside the hub. That still puts the load safely inside the super single wheel (I’ve also messaged reika about the wheel bearing for the rear when I almost purchased there set. They said the wheel bearings are not to worry about at all with the new load characteristics. Apparently in the UK it’s very common to band steelies for wider tires that they have banding shops all around. I don’t think it’s legal, but these wheels will do great when I go camping. Also I’d like to specifically point out I do not want to lift my van. I really don’t like how the lifted sprinters look and you’re not actually gaining ground clearance, just lifting the subframe/body. I’m cutting a couple inches off the fender flares (might even roll them outward), but the wheel well still has plenty of room even when the axle is hitting the bump stops. They sell a bunch of the 3500 rims on ebay extremely cheap. The 3500's are most swapped out wheels and I got six rims for $170. I was surprised steelies are made from just mild steel grade metal. The extra bands i welded are a little higher grade structural steel with a bit more carbon content. There should be no issues with deforming as the back side of 3500 rims protrude far more than the 2.5" I've added in front of the center. I forgot to mention the new tires are 315 75 r16. It was actually super easy to band the steelies. The wheels run true and i tested them on the van with it free wheeling in drive (disable ESP). Making sure to weld opposite sides and cool down before doing other side of the band. The scrap metal I had is the same thickness as the wheel (1/8"). This is what the new 2024 and 2025 3500 sprinter super single version is. In fact you can buy just the rear set and put them on the front of a 3500 (not the newer front's because they run a normal 2500 front hub now). But the rears are basically exactly what mine are now (16 x 8.5") 8.5" is the bead width not the actual rim width. I had to use brake cleaner and a torch to seat the beads. The rim is too wide for even my air powered bead seater. after seating with fire and filling the tire to seat fully I purged the gasses and any smoke by refilling a couple times. The front tire is about 1/4" away front the sidewall hitting the strut. This is just like how my 2500 is with 265 75 r16 tires. They work fine and no rubbing, The van drives smoother now and i really like the matching wheel widths front to rear. It completely changed the look of the van. the brakes still feel great and locks the front wheels no problem on pavement. The best thing about the 3500's is the insane brake upgrade Mercedes added. Bondo and repainted the van with single stage urethane gloss black.