
Hiiiii, so I’m new in the draping world and I just designed this top but there’s an issue… I’ve never graded a bustier or cups before and quite frankly I don’t even really know where to start. The model I’m trying to fit this on is thinner than my dress from and I wasn’t sure if I should start by folding the darts and reducing or laying them open and also reducing. Should I reduce everything homogenously in a horizontal way? (like the whole torso in a basic bodice) or should all the reductions be made going to each nipple's direction? Also I was thinking about taking a picture of this pattern, trace it in Adobe Illustrator and then just try to fit the design into my model's basic bodice (like just by modifying the selection rectangle, but I’m not sure that is the right strategy or would cause fitting problems later. Help 🥲
For reference I also drafted the dartless bodice of my dress form (the one under).