u/Electronic-Garage-60

▲ 1 r/300zx

Had a backfeeding issue preventing my 91' NA from shutting off or leaving accessory. Thought it was the ignition switch first, nope. Then I thought it was the exciter wire from a bad diode on the alternator, nope. Unhooked everything going to the alternator and starter, unplugged everything from the fusible link box except the battery fuse, still have a short from ground to power (leave the positive cable on the battery, unhook the negetive, getting positive on my negetive cable and ground).

Started unplugging stuff from the fuse block in the driver's footwell one by one, and I get the short from plugs B2 and M4 (I think, will double check once home). There was an aftermarket Bluetooth radio installed before I got it, and those plugs are on the audio circuit.

Im figuring its probably the rear amplifier, but thought id see if anyone else had any suspects they think I should look into.

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u/Electronic-Garage-60 — 17 days ago
▲ 1 r/Z32

Finishing up some repairs and adjustments on my '91 NA that had a manual swap done on it before I got it. Guy who did it did some questionable work, so I have questions about his setup as well as finishing my own work.

  1. Nuetral safety switch looks like it was probably bypassed, as the wires on it go nowhere. Is the bypass neccesary for the manual swap, or would I be fine to wire it back in? Ive definitely accidentally started the thing in gear before and would like to prepare against my own f*** lol.

  2. Switches the clutch pedal is supposed to rest on when its up are gone- master cylinder rod was fully extended, so im having to readjust the clutch pedal. Using a bolt as a stopper and adjustment screw for now, but are those switches typically bypassed?

  3. Any tips on the clutch pedal adjustment? Having a hard time getting it just right and im new to driving a manual, so im not sure how the clutch is supposed to feel.

  4. Having a hard time bleeding the clutch and telling if its bled. Replaced the old clutch lines with a single braided one, so I only have the bleeder at the slave cylinder to use. No air is coming out when I bleed it, but the slave cylinder doesn't recede all the way when the clutch pedal is released- only when I bleed from the screw. Then after the first time I pump the pedal after pulling it back the slave cylinder is maybe half an inch short of fully receding, im assuming that means I have air in the line?

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u/Electronic-Garage-60 — 1 month ago