I AM DOING A SMOKE TEST IN THE VIDEO, just wanted to know where the smoke is coming from to find the boost leak
My car is a 2015 335i EWG, I noticed spongy throttle and the CEL with the codes P12A4
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor 'A' After Running Diagnosis Pressure Too Low
Looking at the video , Where is the leak
Btw I am doing a smoke test in the video
Hi, I have a 2015 BMW 335i with the N55 engine (EWG) and I’m trying to figure out this persistent code issue.
Before, I used to get both low-pressure and high-pressure MAP/boost related codes, but now I’m only getting this one:
P12A4 — “Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor ‘A’ After Running Diagnosis Pressure Too Low”
I already replaced the MAP sensor and installed an upgraded aluminum charge pipe.
What’s weird is:
- I clear the code
- car drives fine
- then after around 150–200 miles the code comes back almost every time
I’m tuned on MHD Stage 1. When I log boost:
- target boost is around 14 PSI
- actual boost is only around 10 PSI
The car still feels decently fast, but sometimes throttle feels kind of spongy, especially when the car gets hotter.
Does this code usually mean a boost leak somewhere? Or could it still be:
- bad diverter valve
- wastegate issue
- PCV/valve cover issue
- bad MAP sensor reading
- intercooler/coupler leak
Trying to figure out where to look next before throwing more parts at it.
I have a 2015 F30 335i N55 and the AC works, but it just doesn’t get as cold as other F30s I’ve owned/driven before.
It blows cold, but not ICE cold, especially on MAX AC during summer weather (~80°F outside).
Things I checked:
- Cabin filter replaced
- Blower fan sounds normal and strong
- Low pressure side was around 40 PSI
- System doesn’t seem empty on refrigerant
One weird thing:
When the AC is running, I hear this “ocean wave” type sound sometimes. Almost like airflow surging/waves coming from the vents or HVAC system.
Anybody know what causes that on these cars?
Could it be:
- slightly low refrigerant?
- overcharged system?
- expansion valve?
- evaporator issue?
- blend door issue?
- weak compressor?
- normal BMW AC behavior?
Would appreciate advice from other F30 owners because I know these cars usually blow colder than this.
I have a 2015 F30 335i N55 that I bought recently. Car is in beautiful shape overall and drives strong, but I’ve got one issue bothering me.
After longer drives, especially once the car is fully hot, I smell a burning smell. Smells kind of like oil burning, but I honestly can’t tell 100%.
Weird part is:
- I don’t see obvious leaks under the car
- Engine bay looks pretty clean
- No smoke from exhaust
- No puddles on the ground
But I did lose about 1 quart of oil in around 1500 miles.
Is that normal oil consumption for an N55, or is something probably leaking/burning somewhere?
Possible things I was thinking:
- valve cover gasket
- oil filter housing gasket
- PCV issue
- oil dripping onto exhaust somewhere hidden
- turbo seals
- or just normal N55 behavior?
Anybody else had this exact issue on an F30 N55?
Body:
Got a 2014 BMW 320i and the driver window completely stopped working.
So far we changed:
- window regulator
- window motor
- master window switch
Still absolutely nothing from the driver window.
We already had a mechanic look at it and he said it’s probably a module issue (FRM/FEM or whatever BMW calls it).
Other windows work fine. Car drives normal.
Questions:
- Is this a common F30 issue?
- Could it still be wiring in the door jamb rubber boot?
- Does the module need coding or replacement?
- Is there a fuse just for the driver window?
And honestly at this point, can we just do some jank ass setup and wire the window motor directly to a separate switch with external power?
Like has anyone bypassed the BMW electronics completely and run:
12V → toggle switch → window motor
Just so the window can go up/down without dealing with BMW module nonsense?
Any advice appreciated before we lose our minds lol.
Body:
Got a 2014 BMW 320i and the driver window completely stopped working.
So far we changed:
- window regulator
- window motor
- master window switch
Still absolutely nothing from the driver window.
We already had a mechanic look at it and he said it’s probably a module issue (FRM/FEM or whatever BMW calls it).
Other windows work fine. Car drives normal.
Questions:
- Is this a common F30 issue?
- Could it still be wiring in the door jamb rubber boot?
- Does the module need coding or replacement?
- Is there a fuse just for the driver window?
And honestly at this point, can we just do some jank ass setup and wire the window motor directly to a separate switch with external power?
Like has anyone bypassed the BMW electronics completely and run:
12V → toggle switch → window motor
Just so the window can go up/down without dealing with BMW module nonsense?
Any advice appreciated before we lose our minds lol.
Body:
Got a 2014 BMW 320i and the driver window completely stopped working.
So far we changed:
- window regulator
- window motor
- master window switch
Still absolutely nothing from the driver window.
We already had a mechanic look at it and he said it’s probably a module issue (FRM/FEM or whatever BMW calls it).
Other windows work fine. Car drives normal.
Questions:
- Is this a common F30 issue?
- Could it still be wiring in the door jamb rubber boot?
- Does the module need coding or replacement?
- Is there a fuse just for the driver window?
And honestly at this point, can we just do some jank ass setup and wire the window motor directly to a separate switch with external power?
Like has anyone bypassed the BMW electronics completely and run:
12V → toggle switch → window motor
Just so the window can go up/down without dealing with BMW module nonsense?
Any advice appreciated before we lose our minds lol.