u/DPadres69

Had a fairly extensive service done on my 2008 Hyundai Elantra GLS with the 2.0L I4. Had shocks and struts replaced, my shredded left front CV axle replaced (the boot was largely gone, grease had been flung around the wheel well and the underlying metal was grinding down). Also had tranny fluid changed along with air filter. The smell started after this service and I’ve taken it back to the shop since but they weren’t able to identify a cause and basically said take it to a dealer. It’s been driven about 1000 miles since the service.

I’ve since switched from its long time 5w-30 dino juice oil to Valvoline synthetic restore and protect along with running both AT205 and Techron through the engine and a degreaser and cleaning of the engine itself (the engine block was black as iron rather than its aluminium color before the cleaning. The engine did have a very slow valve cover gasket leak before the AT205 and switch to restore and protect which appears to have abated after that change. I’ve also spot cleaned some of the wheel well to see if the new CV axle is flinging grease but that appears to be a negative after 400 miles since the spot clean.

The replaced axle is on a wheel with a rotor that’s been slightly warped for a while, but no more now than before the service and the smell is not a traditional acrid burning brake or clutch smell. I’ve tried the heat test on both front wheels after a vigorous drive and the heat feels near as makes no difference equal.

I’m kind of at a loss besides doing as they suggest but honestly is Hyundai even going to look at an 18 year old car with 137,000 miles at this point?

We recently acquired a new gas 2026 Tucson SEL with the 8 speed transmission. Didn’t notice anything amiss on test driving, but now that we’ve lived with it a while, I’m a bit concerned.

The transmission seems… indecisive? In Normal mode it’s always hunting for gears and really breaks up the linear nature of both slower acceleration in city scenarios, or just cruising around in sub-20mph situations in particular.

It’s doubly maddening to me since I learned to drive without a tach (so by sound) on a 1981 Toyota truck with a 5 speed manual, my next two cars were 5 and 6 speed manuals (4 speeds with overdrives in all 3 cases), and my current other car is a ‘08 Elantra with a four speed auto.

Is it normal for the 8 speed to over complicate its shifting in Normal and even Sport mode? I mean I know the car can shift quite smoothly linearly. When I put it in sport manual and shift it semi-manually it’s like butter. But I let it rev up to 3000 rpm where the auto seems allergic to going over 2500 rpm.

I didn’t realize there was any difference until I came on here and saw some of you using a cluster with actual gauges like older cars have. My cluster is locked on the “modern” one and while I don’t hate it… I don’t live it either. Particularly now that I know there’s a better option.

But my research shows the classic look is only available on standard ccNC, not the Lite version that my SEL runs. Since it’s just a software setting there’s got to be a way to upgrade it.