Getting better OUTDOORS specifically (bouldering)
Hi all
My question: **Is there any way to train specifically for outdoor bouldering (eg using very small edges that sometimes are very slippery from overuse or uneven/jagged) besides outdoor bouldering more?**
BACKGROUND: I’ve been an exclusively indoors only boulderer for nearly 5 years. First 4 years very casual, I was overweight, not training, etc and was sending V3s and some V4s indoors. Last 12 months I ramped up the intensity, started training and climbing seriously, lost some weight. Now flashing most indoor V5s, and sending V6/V7 indoors. I do climb at a softer gym.
I went climbing outside for the first time last week and fell in love with the outdoors. So much so that I did a second outdoor trip later in the week. Sent a few V3s and a soft V4 on these first two sessions.
However whats blowing my mind is how one is expected to hold onto such small holds even on the lower grades, uneven jaggedy edges, etc. I consider my crimp strength and pulling strength my strongest attribute as a climber - currently can hang on a 15mm edge for 10 seconds BW @165 +30lbs. My pullup 1 rep max is BW @165 +100lbs.
Some of the V4s I tried had uneven, glassy sub 20mm crimps on an overhang. Something I felt I could probably crank on indoors, but couldn’t even begin to hold statically outdoors. Dunno if its not being used to glossy rock, or uneven edges, etc.
**Obviously technique can always be improved BUT is there anything training wise I can do to better prepare for these imperfect slippery edges found everywhere outside?**
Thanks in advance. Can’t wait for the next outdoor session. It has ruined gym climbing for me 🤣