Changing armscye on complicated bodice
I am trying to adjust this rather tight front armscye for a knit top pattern I did not draft.
I have a knit shirt block whose front armscyes are good, and would like to imitate them, but don't know how to apply them to this pattern.
I drew my block armscyes in where they would sit if the block shoulder seam matches up to the pattern shoulder seam.
If I ignore the shoulder seams and line up the top of the block armscye to the pattern, they begin to deviate at the outwardly-drawn notch when moving downward.
My block's lower armscye matches the pattern's lower front sleeve cap pretty closely, and the pattern matches it less, oddly enough. At least one of the drafting books I have says that they *should* match.
How can I incorporate the block armscye into this bodice pattern?
Thanks.
Pattern interpretation info:
The left side of the front pattern (as viewed on the right of the pattern) has a facing, an additional fold-in section that ends up connecting to the armscye, a backing to the gathering that properly sits on the shoulder seam, and a gathered section.
I don't know why the left side of the pattern said "pleat" in the original armscye. I just copied it. Maybe it refers to the faced piece ending up folded and attached there.
The right side (as viewed on the left of the pattern) only has facing and a straightforward shoulder seam.