A video popped up in my youtube recommendations with the most interesting (climbing) training idea I've seen in years. The channel is https://www.youtube.com/@ReverseActionFitness and has released three "episodes" so-far.
The idea is to hold a weight isometrically, but move your body (with unrelated muscle groups) in order to flex the relevant joint in a way essentially amounts to doing an isotonic exercise. Check out the start of the second episode for a demo for bicep curls: The $200 Setup That Reverses The Physics of Exercise
I don't think the channel has yet released specific protocols for climbing, but the third episode goes deep into the background, philosophy, and potential novel benefits (essentially the promise of isotonic exercise for finger flexor hypertrophy). This approach may finally realize the "heavy finger rolls" dream that training nerds have been pursuing since (at least) the heyday of the Anderson brother.
Applying this to finger training will essentially just mean moving the wrist while crimping with a constant force. I wonder: Suppose you just take one of these type of hokey spring hand grip strengtheners things https://www.ebay.com/itm/393612429179 and hold it at a specific crimp grip, while moving the wrist up and down. Could this be an easier setup for finger training in this paradigm? (Apologies if the channel already discusses this -- the videos are a bit dense and I admit I have been skimming / watching distracted so-far.)
Regardless, super interesting stuff!
