A different type of heritage fabric: Tussah silk
I'm assuming most people who read that title will scratch their heads and ask themselves why the hell would I talk about silk in a heritage/workwear focused sub. Hear me out, I believe that the fabric meets the qualifications to be discussed here, and it is the most misunderstood natural fabric IMHO. Frankly, I'd like to see more garments made of silk. I think in western cultures, silk has taken on an association with delicate, even feminine clothing, and that's simply not the case at all.
Tussah silk is the silk harvested in the wild, as opposed to mulberry silk which comes from facilities/farms where the caterpillars are fed a controlled diet of mulberry leaves. In the wild, the caterpillars eat a more diverse diet, and they are subjected to more environmental pressure.
As a result, tussah silk is 25-30% stronger than mulberry silk. When the structure of the two silks are compared, the tussah silk fibers are much thicker, and have more fibroid cross linking between them, making it more durable.
Silk is the strongest natural fiber, having a tensile strength comparable to steel. It's far more durable than cotton or wool, but it does lose some durability when wet. Silk is lightweight, breathable, moisture wicking and thermoregulating, meaning it excels in high temperatures but it also works well as a base layer in extreme cold. It is also naturally hypoallergenic.
Why does tussah silk count as heritage? Because the first records of it being used in garments date back to 2400BC in the Indus valley, predating the silk industry forming in China. Although most people think of silk as being soft and delicate, it has a long history of military usage as well. Mongol soldiers wore thick silk garments under their armor for additional protection, these garments were analogous to the European gambeson. Samauri wore capes called "horos" which covered their back and sides while riding on horseback, and the silk cape deflected arrows and was tough enough to decelerate any arrows that pierced it enough that they wouldn't harm the wearer. The first modern bullet proof vest was made from silk after a doctor in 1881 noted that silk handkerchiefs were strong enough to significantly decelerate a pistol round. And 20th century militaries used silk for parachutes, and for lightweight maps that were waterproof and easy to conceal.
Tussah silk is considered a sustainable fabric as well when compared to mulberry silk. The production doesn't require the death of the moth, the silk is harvested after the cocoon opens. It also doesn't require any pesticides, artificial feed or farming methods that damage the local wildlife. Since the production doesn't involve harming any wildlife in the harvesting or growth process, tussah silk is considered a cruelty free fabric as well.
The weather is a little warmer today, and I'm wearing a pair of vintage Polo tussah silk chinos. They're at least 30 years old, and still in fantastic shape. The chinos are incredibly light, they weigh less than some of my mid to heavy weight t-shirts, but they still have enough structure to drape well. They're extremely comfortable in warm weather, and I can feel every little breeze as if I was wearing shorts. They're a life saver in the summer, they provide full coverage from the sun while still being cool and comfortable to wear. If you're looking for something new to try this summer, look around on eBay and see if you can grab some silk clothes.
Sport coat: Spier&Mackay Harris tweed, unlined
Shirt: Wrangler Retro snap
Trousers: Polo tussah silk
Boots: Double H