Corset cup advice for large busts! Let’s nerd out plz
Hello!
So I made a corset dress and am very proud! Fully integrated with a whole in built corset as part of the dress all fully lined and pretty on the inside!
While I am overall happy as a proof of concept I am not happy with the cups. I swear I made about TWELVE mockups and they looked ok but then would make them in the fashion fabric and it would buckle?
Details.
Pattern based on waisted creations
Fully lined with steel boning and underwire and foam.
Fashion fabric is Cotten velveteen. Lining is rayon. Interlining/corsetry in coutil.
Used guidance by royal black and couture sewing methods. This is not my first corset but the first cupped corset.
Thoughts.
After googling I think the issue is most of the instruction I found was for small busts. I have a DD/E cup. I think the mockups worked as they had a bit more structure with the muslin and typically when I mockup the seam allowance is on the outside. Although I used foam and underwire I didn’t topstitch all the layers together so I think what’s happening is gravity is impacting and it happens at the seam line…?
Research/strategies
I found some YouTubes/IG of corset/dressmakers for larger busts and they typically make a boned cage for structural support.
I note the cashmerette strapless bra uses bones in it too!
I could also just integrate the layers better OR
Use a bit of interfacing to stiffen it up.
Could go back to pattern drafting?
NOTE. These photos are wrinkly as it was end of the night and a consequence of a wiggle dress. I think also I didn’t stitch in the ditch the layers of fashion fabric and corset together which causes some shifting between the coutil and velveteen. I can move, sit easily. I appreciate all feedback! But cups are the focus please 💖
I am a scientist so typically research pretty deep. I haven’t found too many posts or helpful guides so figure this post may be to help others! I can also post updates or future findings here too! 🤓🤓