VERY frustrating - because it's also true of shirts sold by allegedly 'authentic' historically-informed clothiers (e.g., Darcy Clothing in the UK).
So, can anyone point me to a pattern for a men's mid-late 19th century dress shirt which is CORRECTLY designed?
Or am I wrong in thinking that by the 1840s (if not earlier), men's DRESS (vs. work) shirts would have have had band collars and cuffs with slits in them for the studs needed to attach their separate collars and cuffs? Unless one expressly asked one's chemisier (or wife) to make his shirts with unfashionable attached collars and cuffs - and I cannot find any evidence that even royalty/aristocrats and other extremely wealthy men who could afford lots of shirts and high laundry bills making such requests - one's chemisier/wife was going to make one's shirt with a band collar and cuffs and sell one detachable collars and cuffs to go with it.
For this, we can thank Christophe Charvet, who allegedly conceived of the detachable collar independently from Mrs. Lord Montague of Troy, NY, whom the Internet often credits as the detached collar's inventor nine years before M. Charvet opened his Paris shop. I say we can thank Charvet because he had infintely more influence on the fashion world in Paris—and thus, in the western world—than a housewife from a provincial town in upstate New York.