r/Arisaka

Still need to cut a slot through the rear bridge to let the bolt operating pin to slide through. The bolt operating pin will be welded to the underside of a modified dust cover. The piston will be on the side of the rifle welded to the dust cover to function as the bolt carrier.

Picking this Type 99 Arisaka up at local gun shop. No mum, AA sights, or bipod. It does have a metal butt plate.

Wondering if anyone can help me out with what I got? Sorry for the crappy pics!

Scooped the rifle at auction for $425. Got into a bidding war for the bayonet and ended up at $325. I feel like overall, pretty solid deal for both. Appears that it’s a Type 38, series 23 with the Mum and dust cover!

Maybe not an Arisaka but it is made in Japan. Decided to get one of these to add to the “Japanese made guns” part of my collection. Came with a bayonet with what I believe is an original frog. The stock also seems to be in very good shape with some nice finish. Interestingly the Cleaning rod lug has been removed and plugged. Really happy to have this one especially with a bayonet.

Picked up this matching type 2 from a gunshow with questionable “artwork”

Mum is ground so I don’t think it was done in the field but maybe shortly after by a vet….or maybe a really bored Fudd in 1970. Anyone else see “artwork” like this on Arisakas? Whoever did it had some serious woodworking skills…

Well. I got a sporterized type 99. It looked pretty dang good, none of the metal appeared to be hacked on and I figured i could gather parts over time.

Then I was cleaning it up and noticed something weird about the barrel. Every type 99 photo I see the barrel has kind of a shoulder where it screws into the receiver. Mine does not. Also mine has what looks to be a factory witness mark on the receiver and a new mark on the barrel. Most damning is this crack? On the front end of the receiver. I assume that’s not normal. Anyone have any thoughts on what I’m looking at?

I threw a 308 snap cap in there bc I had one, it won’t chamber on 308. And I’m pretty dang sure 7.7 is longer. Maybe the neck just keeps it from chambering or whatever it may or may not be chambered as is just super short….

Going to take it out of the stock and see how bad it is underneath.

This one is my first Jinsen and I’m pretty happy with it. It’s all matching as far as I can tell. Going off of another example I saw in Francis C. Allan’s book with a very close serial number, this one should be from about July 1942 give or take.

Got my first Arisaka Rifle today and I quite like it got it for a good price of $750 from legacy collectibles from what I saw on the website it’s a Nagoya Series 22 (I bought a reproduction sling for it)

I’ve been reloading for a few years now, and always emphasized getting .310-312” projos for my type 99s until this week I decided to try some Hornady .308” 147 grain FMJs for funsies. Turns out, they did pretty well in my Izawa Jukyo, as well as in one of my Type 99 longs. Granted, it’s not guaranteed they’ll work, in some rifles they may even tumble, but it certainly wasn’t expecting them to do better than decent - today they flat out did well. For reference, the FMJ is a 7.65x53mm Argentine transload, the red bullet is 200 grain LCB gas checked, and the pic without a round is the .308 FMJs

Decided to purchase this $600 out the door type 38, bunch of the post on here inspired me to get one. Not sure if I got a good deal or not. But I love it. In good condition rifling/bore is clean and strong for its age. I’m not sure what arsenal markings it may be early/mid/late production. Only down side is the dust cover serial number does not match or the bolt (lever part).

I’ve been using different brass donor calibers to roll 7.7x58mm - and got caught up in the irony of using 8mm Mauser brass made in 1942 for the Chinese to make 7.7 Japanese.

Buddy is selling me his sporter Arisaka type 99 it’s a 7th series Nagoya. I’m going to get it back to its full configuration but before I spend money on a stock I need to find out of most stocks will work. I know they vary from manufacturer to series but I have heard most are just about all the same minus a few rare variations. Need help so any help with be appreciated.

So you know how some pens have a shirt clip that is a separate piece of metal that clamps on to the pen shaft using a sort of sea shaped piece of metal? (🖊 ) i'm gonna put that on the shaft of the bolt, and it'll slide back and forth, just enough to kick the cartridge out when it strikes the bolt stop.

I'd like to change the spring in it. From the one YouTube video available, you have to depress the follower all the way and then turn the thumb button/key and remove it, but when I depress the follower I cant actually get it to turn all the way to be able to remove it

I didn't goof up and get a display piece right? Picked this up for a song due to the broken bolt handle, they needed a mallet to get the action open.

I don't believe this is a trainer, being sporterized and having plenty of markings. But I don't know much about these Rifles. Any and all info is appreciated!

1. The one has a bent Quillion. Attempt to bend it back or accept as character?

2. Is there a good place to get a scabbard. Im missing one.